| E4 6a|
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An atmospheric route but with some suspect rock. Start at very low tide below a groove 6m right of the Big in America flake; or abseil to a flat spike on the upper left-hand side of this groove.
1) 6a, 25m. Climb the lower groove then step left to the flat spike. Trend back rightwards into a long groove - bold but easy. Climb the open groove for 4m then pull left onto the arete. Climb this straight over a small overlap to reach a ledge, grovel onto this then climb a short groove to a belay.
2) 6a, 15m. Climb juggy cracks in the left wall of the groove above to the second thread then pull rightwards in an exposed position onto the wall right of a rib. Move up to a thread and finish more easily above.
FA. Gary Gibson 17.3.90