Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 69
30m. A fine climb up the tall corner above a small cave, where the ledge below the cliff drops down. Climb the corner then move back left and make a grovelling pull onto a ledge (possible belay). Move up and right into the higher corner and climb this to the top.
First HVS of the season and I only attempted it because there was a queue on Limbo [VS].
Well protected with two awkward moves. If you grab the ledge at half height, it's much easier to mantle onto it if you keep moving left.
I think I started out wrong but may have found a route more consistent with the grade - instead of ambling up the arete, walk round to the right and climb the big corner.
I found this awkward to climb and hard to protect (at least the first half) compared to Manzoku. My interpretation of the guidebook was that you're meant to follow the corner rather than the arete (as someone else commented above).
A nice route up the attractively "switching" groovelines. The swing leftwards detracts a bit from this line but otherwise the climbing is good.