Hercules Top 50

2 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
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A fine climb up the tall corner above a small cave, where the ledge below the cliff drops down. Climb the corner then move back left and make a grovelling pull onto a ledge (possible belay). Move up and right into the higher corner and climb this to the top.
FA. J.Williams 12.8.78


First HVS of the season and I only attempted it because there was a queue on Limbo [VS].
Nice easy start with plenty of excitement on the crux. I was amazed at how many juggy handholds there were and plenty of gear placements - totally safe. Though I finally ran out of puff on the sustained upper section and was forced to rest on my gear.
Though having rested I could appreciate the the overhanging finnish with the big handholds.
Albie - 03/May/05

Fun :o)
chris j - 11/Jul/05

Well protected with two awkward moves. If you grab the ledge at half height, it's much easier to mantle onto it if you keep moving left.
John Alcock - 01/Sep/05

I think I started out wrong but may have found a route more consistent with the grade - instead of ambling up the arete, walk round to the right and climb the big corner.
drcorbasisgod - 09/Oct/05

Only VS
Geoff Odds - 13/Oct/05

I found this awkward to climb and hard to protect (at least the first half) compared to Manzoku. My interpretation of the guidebook was that you're meant to follow the corner rather than the arete (as someone else commented above).
Virgil Scott - 26/Oct/05

A nice route up the attractively "switching" groovelines. The swing leftwards detracts a bit from this line but otherwise the climbing is good.
Fiend - 27/Jun/06

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 69
    hard E1 0 of 22
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    easy E1 0 of 22
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    5a 20 of 23
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