Manzoku Top 50

3 Stars
Crimpy
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
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35m. 'Satisfaction' in Japanese - the wall left of the arete is superb, popular, polished and usually occupied. Move up to the break below and right of the cave. Traverse this rightwards until it is possible to pull up left into a groove. Move back slightly right to another groove then make a tricky move up left to gain good holds. Follow the wall above on some amazing juggy rock, keeping left of the finishing corner.
FA. Ken Wilkinson 27.8.78

USER COMMENTS

one of best e1s in pembroke
felly - 09/Feb/05

Great route indeed. Some of the jugs at the top are so big you can get your whole arm behind them. Great if you're pumped to death.
Victim of Mathematics - 11/Feb/05

This was my first extreme, and I think it was a good choice, not that it is particularly easy or safe, but sometimes it is good to be thrown in at the deep end!
Ricardo Lopez - 21/Feb/05

Sensational - quite sustained and full of interest, thank God for the jugs at the top!.
Pat Wilson - 06/Jun/05

Steady, not hard, unless you're used to gritstone length routes, when you'll pump out just as you get to the jugs...
chris j - 11/Jul/05

Stonking route. Never very hard but long, very long...Take more than eight quick draws, otherwise you might need your shoe laces or other improvised gear. Take all the rests you can.
Sishaw - 15/Aug/05

Easier if you bear left a little at half height, more pumpy if go head straight up the corner.
John Alcock - 01/Sep/05

Totally awesome, beautiful setting, and interesting climbing.
Virgil Scott - 26/Oct/05

Watch your ropes getting jammed in a little clamp on the face. Best to clip both ropes lower down to avoid this
Chris Wyatt - 02/Nov/05

I was slightly underwhelmed by this 'classic' E1, and I don't feel it has a strong enough line, or a good enough position, to warrant three stars. The climbing is continually interesting right until the end though, which redeems it somewhat.
Alun - 07/Dec/05

Agree with the above, sustained interest but never particularly hard, lots of stonking gear too, only real problem is route-finding and choice of routes all the way up. I thought 3 star E1, definately more interest than The Arrow for instance.....
Chad Harrison - 02/May/06

I too was underwhelmed by this one - if it ended about half way between the platform and the top, it'd be perfect. The slight confusion in the line, along with the strenuous but un-difficult nature of the upper section, just takes away from the overall route - i.e. at the ledge I loved this climb, by the top I was swearing at it!
Pythonist - 15/May/07

Stick with the 'groove of overlaps' and it is a pumpy beast. Move 2m left to a line of flaky jugs knocks it down half a grade!
Chris Craggs - 26/Aug/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 113
    hard E2 0 of 38
    E2 0 of 38
    easy E2 3 of 38
    hard E1 8 of 38
    E1 24 of 38
    easy E1 2 of 38
    hard HVS 1 of 38
    HVS 0 of 38
    easy HVS 0 of 38
    hard 5c 0 of 38
    5c 0 of 38
    easy 5c 0 of 38
    hard 5b 3 of 38
    5b 29 of 38
    easy 5b 6 of 38
    hard 5a 0 of 38
    5a 0 of 38
    easy 5a 0 of 38
    3 Stars 30 of 37
    2 Stars 5 of 37
    1 Star 2 of 37
    0 Stars 0 of 37
    Bag of ..... 0 of 37

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