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A superb route which follows the groove which runs up the left-hand side of the main overhangs and then blasts out to an exposed position on the front edge of the buttress. Start below the long tapering groove.
1) 4c, 30m. Climb a steep wall into the main groove and follow this to a large ledge to the left of the main roofs.
2) 5a, 15m. Climb diagonally right across the wall, past a flake, to a niche. Move right again to the arete then pull up into a larger niche and finish up a steep crack.
FA. Steve Lewis, Charlie Heard 17.6.79
One of my all time favourite solos..tricky off-putting bulge a short way up the first pitch and utterly spectacular positions on the top pitch. Remember it's not bird banned as long as you abseil in.
John Alcock - 07/Mar/05
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