Pigs on the Wing

3 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Galactic Co-ordinator < Welcome to the Cruise  |  Deep Throat > None >>


This breath-taking traverse follows the lower line below the main roof. The climbing is never very difficult and the positions are amazing. Start from the belay ledge at the end of the first pitch of Galactic Co-ordinator, reached by either doing this pitch or by scrambling easily down from the top.
1) 4c, 15m. Swing around the arete onto the main face and follow the break below the roof to a wild stance on an arete.
2) 5a, 15m. Continue traversing along the break, past the crack of Deep Throat, to a large ledge. Scramble off easily.
FA. Charlie Heard, Steve Lewis 17.6.79

USER COMMENTS

one of the best HVS in Pemmers - by far.
Search it out.
perhaps not the best climbing, but easily the best for experience
greg - 09/Feb/05

very atmospheric.....did it bystarting on the first pitch of GC which has a hard start on very funky sharp black rock. the traverse itself can be a bit daunting because it's a lot of work on the arms. Best to belay halfway at a fixed friend (well i hope it's fixed) then continue underneath a dirty wet corner for about 5-10m....belay low down and walk off rather than from the very top to avoid drag.
Morgan Woods - 05/Aug/05

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 15
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