Darkness at Noon

3 Stars
Pumpy
 E5 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< None < Woeful  |  Night-Seeker > Hunter-Killer >>


An amazing climb which takes a wild line up the seaward end of the wall. The conditions of this route seem to vary from slippery and unclimbable to surprisingly dry. Take a lot of small wires.
1) 6a, 25m. Climb the ramp then step down and traverse left with difficulty. Move up the ramp above into a runnel and squirm up this to a tricky exit. Belay on a big thread in the groove above.
2) 5c, 10m. Undercut wildly rightwards around the roof, then step back left and look down at your second. Finish straight up to a big natural thread on the right.
FA. Pat Littlejohn, Tony Penning 15.4.84

USER COMMENTS

I didn't find small wire placements to be particularly numerous, plenty of long quickdraws would probably be better gear advice.
Fine to do in one pitch.
toby - 31/Aug/09

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  • Access Issues for Pembroke


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 9
    hard E6 0 of 3
    E6 0 of 3
    easy E6 0 of 3
    hard E5 0 of 3
    E5 3 of 3
    easy E5 0 of 3
    hard E4 0 of 3
    E4 0 of 3
    easy E4 0 of 3
    hard 6b 0 of 3
    6b 0 of 3
    easy 6b 0 of 3
    hard 6a 0 of 3
    6a 3 of 3
    easy 6a 0 of 3
    hard 5c 0 of 3
    5c 0 of 3
    easy 5c 0 of 3
    3 Stars 3 of 3
    2 Stars 0 of 3
    1 Star 0 of 3
    0 Stars 0 of 3
    Bag of ..... 0 of 3

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