Darkness at Noon
<< None < Woeful | Night-Seeker > Hunter-Killer >>
An amazing climb which takes a wild line up the seaward end of the wall. The conditions of this route seem to vary from slippery and unclimbable to surprisingly dry. Take a lot of small wires.
1) 6a, 25m. Climb the ramp then step down and traverse left with difficulty. Move up the ramp above into a runnel and squirm up this to a tricky exit. Belay on a big thread in the groove above.
2) 5c, 10m. Undercut wildly rightwards around the roof, then step back left and look down at your second. Finish straight up to a big natural thread on the right.
FA. Pat Littlejohn, Tony Penning 15.4.84
I didn't find small wire placements to be particularly numerous, plenty of long quickdraws would probably be better gear advice.
Fine to do in one pitch.
toby - 31/Aug/09
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