Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 21
The original line up this bit of wall which is slightly spoilt by the crux move being much harder than the rest.</br>1) 6b, 25m. Climb the triangular niche and the crack above it. From here either move left and up to the pegs, or climb the flake on the right - both 5b. Make a desperate series of moves up and left into a scoop. Step left again to another scoop to belay.</br>2) 5c, 20m. Step up and clip a thread than move back down and traverse left in an impressive position to reach another runnel. Follow this direct to the top.
steady e3 if you pull on the peg. other than that, one desperate move
One desperate, but brilliant move. The crux sidepull seeps a little.
Crux not to bad f you take the time to study holds from the ledge. IMHO peg should go, bomber nut right and slightly up before you embark on the crux
The peg is little more than a heap of rust. Without it, though, I'd find the potential pendulum rather alarming even with the backup nut in the flake to the right. I agree with the comment about the side pull - it's a small seepage slot which needs to be dry. The second pitch should not be underestimated.