Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 69
35m. A superb route that is low in the grade. The first half is serious and the big move at the top is entirely dependent on reach, varying from 5c for the very tall to desperate 6b for shorties. Start from the block and move left to the crack. Climb back rightwards to a red pancake (runners) then make bold-but-easy moves left back into the crack. Climb easily up above heading back rightwards to the bulge. Pull over this into a big hole then up to a ledge in a corner. A belay here makes it easy to keep an eye on your second. Photo on this page.
cant see how the crux is height dependent. If you cant reach the hold, move your feet up higher, footholds everywhere. Not even close to 6b unless your about 3 foot tall.
Crux depends which holds are dry. At my height (5,6) it's solid 6b and hard to get first go. Big Mark Hopkins said it was 5c for him as he could reach straight to the thank god hold. I have to do an all out slap off a poor intermediate.
certainly reachy, but ridiculously well protected, and only one move, even if it is 6b, far more worthy of a downgrade than headhunter.