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The cluster of tat with a bale-out krab on it marks the crux, although reaching it is no picnic.
1) 6c, 15m. Climb to the tat and make a desperate move up and right (6c for shorties) to reach a good hold. Belay on the ramp.
2) 6a, 20m. Climb the wall above the centre of the ledge past a thread. Move back left to join and finish up Head Hunter at its flake. The original ivy and grass finish is a desperate struggle. It can be climbed in one pitch.
FA. Gary Gibson 26.3.85
Harder than headhunter (E5 6a)to get to the crux then without any decent rests you get the crux 6b/c. I know it's safe but I think it's nearer E6 and probably hard 7b sport grade.
Robert Mirfin - 22/Jul/13
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