Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 35
Originally this route started in the same place as Magazine People, but it is much better to start at the arete just left of Shape-Up (or the slab just left with a thread at 6a). This gives a good enjoyable pitch at a more even grade. From the top of the arete make tricky moves up onto a ramp, then continue to reach a traverse line under the roof which is passed by puzzling moves on its left-hand side.
not sure why this is in extreme rock, but quite good anyway. worth E3 i reckon. take a knife with you-loads of decent threads that are choked with shitty old stuff that you wouldnt want to trust, but stops you putting good stuff in. good climbing, but shitty top-out
This route is the one which goes up the arete which is only 5c. If you start direct past the thread at the bottom, just left of the arete, then it is worth 6a but a bit artificial. Either way the top move is still quite tricky but not 6a nor is it worth E3 since the old threads can be backed up.
Point taken, but I think E3 overall for the route is fair, as (starting up the arete) you've got three hard (5c) moves, including a sustained gripping little section at the top, above the peg, above the threads which though are backupable and good but a fall here would still be sizeable and serious (- could you lower back down on 50s?) plus (no shit) it's in the Leap.
Having spent a week in Pembroke and lead 11 E2s, I can honestly say this was the hardest. But what a route! That top section by the peg/bolt is amazing, and there are plenty of 5c moves.
Felt more like a two star E3 to me too. The top section is okay if you use your feet, but there is a lower cruxy move near the top of the arete and above your gear which would result in a reasonable fall.
i thought this was tremendous, 3 stars all the way with only downside possibly being that its slightly escapable. also, didnt feel like E2: an unobvious line at 1 or 2 points, difficult to find and sometimes awkward to place gear (not to mention poor in situ gear) and sustained 5c moves, some of which are relatively committing; many E2 leaders would struggle on this.