The Beast from the Undergrowth

2 Stars
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Slap-Up/Fitz-In < Wrap-Up  |  The Pulsebeat > Compulsion >>

This is probably the most popular route in the Leap, it starts at the big flake/groove left of the smooth black wall. Step right from the top of the flake and pull over a bulge. Follow a line of holds up rightwards to a roof. Step back left and make a l-o-n-g pull over this to reach good holds above. Shorties may want to use the two alternative sequences which don't need a reach. Follow the wall above with care, keeping slightly right.
FA. Gary Gibson 19.3.84


Lovely route - really enjoyable. Steady all the way - and it is quite a looong reach.
Paul Evans - 26/Aug/05

This felt like a soft touch E2 for me - I've done harder and more dangerous HVS routes. Even comparing with other routes in the leap, such as Quiet Waters Direct, the E2 grade seems odd.
drcorbasisgod - 09/Oct/05

Depends how tall you are! It's pretty reachy, above your gear and not just once, there are two bulges to contend with. Good fun though, a great first route in the leap.
Chad Harrison - 02/May/06

Cool route with nice rock and a generally relaxed feel - apart from the crux which is bloody hard whether it's the huge reach or the obvious alternative. Start goes easily even when damp.
Fiend - 27/Jun/06

This is never E2. There is just one 5b move, on decent gear, the rest is steady 5a.
Iain Thow - 20/Dec/08

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Access Issues for Pembroke

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 48
    hard E3 0 of 16
    E3 0 of 16
    easy E3 0 of 16
    hard E2 0 of 16
    E2 5 of 16
    easy E2 8 of 16
    hard E1 3 of 16
    E1 0 of 16
    easy E1 0 of 16
    hard 5c 0 of 16
    5c 0 of 16
    easy 5c 1 of 16
    hard 5b 1 of 16
    5b 13 of 16
    easy 5b 1 of 16
    hard 5a 0 of 16
    5a 0 of 16
    easy 5a 0 of 16
    3 Stars 0 of 16
    2 Stars 12 of 16
    1 Star 3 of 16
    0 Stars 1 of 16
    Bag of ..... 0 of 16

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.