Army Dreamers Top 50

3 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Front Line < The Baker  |  Shell Shock > Sharp Shooter >>


25m. An extremely popular route, especially on bank holidays. Start below a very wide crack in the east wall of the block. Climb up into the crack then make a slippery traverse left to a well-positioned thinner crack. Follow this to the top. Photo on page 170.
FA. Steve Lewis 3.80. FA. (Direct) Andy Pollitt 21.9.81

USER COMMENTS

The biggest difficulty is deciding which one of the uber-polishy footholds to use whilst you haul on the mega-jugs. Great stuff.
Victim of Mathematics - 09/Feb/05

Vies with Great North Road for the title of best single pitch HVS in the country. Sustained but never that difficult, polished but I didn't find this a big problem.
Chris the Tall - 10/Feb/05

Its that little polished spike thats the bugger!
The Pylon King - 10/Feb/05

What a belter. Totally agree with all the previous comments - the overhanging start is in fact the easier part of the climb and the fun starts on the traverse.
It's all as safe as houses and plenty of big holds. Like Hercules, I'd highly recommend this for a first HVS.
Albie - 03/May/05

Briliant. Loved the fly on the wall feeling around the crux.
Pat Wilson - 06/Jun/05

Never difficult but also nver very exciting either. It is a good route but would be made more memorable if the treverse was harder or the crack didn't give in so easily. I reckon this would get VS in the Peak.
Sishaw - 15/Aug/05

Managed to screw up the route finging when I did this route went too high before doing the traverse and ended up doing a really tenuous traverse that involved almost a contolled fall to get to the big flakey hold. Was really good route though. But more like E1 the way I did it.
tom r - 27/Feb/06

Beautiful, never too hard, and not as polished as I was told it would be
Elizabeth Cripps - 20/May/08

Great route, low in the grade & with decent gear. A good first HVS. If you cruised it go and do Front Line for the real deal.
Iain Thow - 20/Dec/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 83
    hard E1 0 of 28
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    easy E1 0 of 28
    hard HVS 2 of 28
    HVS 19 of 28
    easy HVS 7 of 28
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    5a 26 of 28
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