The Loosener

1 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Gandhi < Centurion  |  Clean Hand Blues Band > Munchies >>

To the right of the open corner is a blunt arete which is undercut on its right-hand side. This route follows the crack to the left of the arete. Not very well named, thankfully.
FA. Bernard Newman 7.4.80


Poss E1?
john horscroft - 21/Feb/05

Thought this was desperate and really pumpy. Extremely hard for HVS.
dave - 28/Jun/05

Standard HVS 5A if you can jam. Well protected.
John2 - 08/Jul/05

I think this one is really conditions-dependent. I've done it when it was dirty & seeping and found it desperately pumpy, but in good condition it's a nice climb.
Nick Smith - UKC - 08/Jul/05

Watched someone climb this with a rack of cams. Nearly all shifted or fell out. Pembroke cracks aren't parallel.
John Alcock - 25/Aug/05

I didn't think this was terribly hard or poorly protected for an HVS. Have you ever tried The Sloth? Conditions were good when I lead it, but anyone used to the overhangs at indoor walls would be ok for strength on this.
drcorbasisgod - 09/Oct/05

Standard E0
pylonking - 22/May/06

If you can jam you know it's in the bag as soon as you sink the first one into the crack. If you can't... Gear's ok anyway, lots of big wires, some cams, monster thread.
chris jones - 02/Jun/06

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  • Access Issues for Pembroke

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 27
    hard E1 0 of 9
    E1 0 of 9
    easy E1 1 of 9
    hard HVS 1 of 9
    HVS 7 of 9
    easy HVS 0 of 9
    hard VS 0 of 9
    VS 0 of 9
    easy VS 0 of 9
    hard 5b 0 of 9
    5b 0 of 9
    easy 5b 0 of 9
    hard 5a 6 of 9
    5a 3 of 9
    easy 5a 0 of 9
    hard 4c 0 of 9
    4c 0 of 9
    easy 4c 0 of 9
    3 Stars 0 of 9
    2 Stars 7 of 9
    1 Star 2 of 9
    0 Stars 0 of 9
    Bag of ..... 0 of 9

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