Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 60
35m. An excellent and popular route which follows the main line of the wall. The climbing in the groove is superb and very pumpy. The upper wall is much easier but has some loose rock so make sure you get some good gear in. Start beneath the weakness in the lower wall. Climb up to the flake/crack and follow good holds up its left-hand side. From the top of the pedestal move up into the groove and follow it leftwards. At a small bulge pull back right onto the upper wall. Follow this to the top. Photo this page.
bloody brilliant. sustained and well protected. dont know where the line about poor gear above the break-there's plenty, and its easy climbing by then. the very first moves off the floor (before the big ledge) are bloody desperate-easy british 7c.
Who says all Pembroke E3s are soft for the grade? Well-protected, no hard moves, but pretty pumpy.
There's like only one wire once you leave the groove, that's where there's little gear! Pumpy as all hell in the groove.
Don't forget to extend gear under the roof!
mega 40 footer from the roof. landed even with the top of the wall. 3!!!! bits of gear ripped on the way down. 1 was a cam in the roof. very unsettling. was a particuarly greasy day and i just slipped off. wont be getting back on it in a hurry.
Seems to be two ways to do this - moving right at the first mini roof is very bold but not that pumpy, moving right at the second roof has more gear but is pumpy. Either way the head wall is ok if you believe! Wait for sun to hit face before getting on it though....
I didn't think gear was the issue on this route, it's more the endurance factor. I needed a rest at the top of the groove!
Agree with Chris Parson, I found buckets of gear after leaving the roof, and on the top slab.