Test Case Top 50

3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Charisma < John Wayne  |  Head Case > Semaphore Signals >>


35m. An excellent and popular route which follows the main line of the wall. The climbing in the groove is superb and very pumpy. The upper wall is much easier but has some loose rock so make sure you get some good gear in. Start beneath the weakness in the lower wall. Climb up to the flake/crack and follow good holds up its left-hand side. From the top of the pedestal move up into the groove and follow it leftwards. At a small bulge pull back right onto the upper wall. Follow this to the top. Photo this page.
FA. Pat Littlejohn 21.7.78

USER COMMENTS

bloody brilliant. sustained and well protected. dont know where the line about poor gear above the break-there's plenty, and its easy climbing by then. the very first moves off the floor (before the big ledge) are bloody desperate-easy british 7c.
ged - 20/Apr/05

Who says all Pembroke E3s are soft for the grade? Well-protected, no hard moves, but pretty pumpy.
John Alcock - 25/Aug/05

There's like only one wire once you leave the groove, that's where there's little gear! Pumpy as all hell in the groove.
Jus - 19/Sep/05

Don't forget to extend gear under the roof!
Big nut just after pulling round then unprotected 4C to the top
kevin stephens - 18/Apr/06

mega 40 footer from the roof. landed even with the top of the wall. 3!!!! bits of gear ripped on the way down. 1 was a cam in the roof. very unsettling. was a particuarly greasy day and i just slipped off. wont be getting back on it in a hurry.
paulr - 16/Oct/06

Seems to be two ways to do this - moving right at the first mini roof is very bold but not that pumpy, moving right at the second roof has more gear but is pumpy. Either way the head wall is ok if you believe! Wait for sun to hit face before getting on it though....
Chad Harrison - 13/May/08

I didn't think gear was the issue on this route, it's more the endurance factor. I needed a rest at the top of the groove!
Chris Parson - 07/Jul/09

Agree with Chris Parson, I found buckets of gear after leaving the roof, and on the top slab.

Definately wait til later in the day to get on it though, I did it first thing in the morning and my hand slipped straight off the 'rest' hold after the crux; next I knew I was hanging in my harness...
Alun - 26/Jul/10

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  • Access Issues for Pembroke


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 60
    hard E4 0 of 21
    E4 0 of 21
    easy E4 4 of 21
    hard E3 11 of 21
    E3 5 of 21
    easy E3 1 of 21
    hard E2 0 of 21
    E2 0 of 21
    easy E2 0 of 21
    hard 6a 0 of 21
    6a 0 of 21
    easy 6a 2 of 21
    hard 5c 10 of 21
    5c 9 of 21
    easy 5c 0 of 21
    hard 5b 0 of 21
    5b 0 of 21
    easy 5b 0 of 21
    3 Stars 14 of 18
    2 Stars 4 of 18
    1 Star 0 of 18
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    Bag of ..... 0 of 18

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