Get Some In Top 50

3 Stars
Pumpy
 E5 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< The Rising Tide < Raw Recruits  |  You Got Me Into This! > Hangover '77 >>


30m. Sustained and well protected climbing and, like all good cruxes, itís at the top! Start at the same point as Raw Recruits. Climb to the right-hand side of a roof and break rightwards up the crack which is followed with increasing difficulty to a big flat hold. The next bit is best climbed as quickly as possible without thinking too much about your gear. Finish up a short groove above.
FA. Bob Berzins 22.8.81

USER COMMENTS

Superb. A doddle to top rope (French 6c?), but very pumpy to place the gear on lead. I rationed myself to wires every 10/12 feet, when you could quite easily aid the whole route. There's barely a move more than 5c, but it goes on an on. When I on-sighted it years ago, I lay down when I got to the resting ledge and de-pumped for 20 minutes before topping out, ignoring the bored jeers of the onlookers.
John Alcock - 26/Aug/05

Agree with John, don't put in too much gear or you will use it. All the gear is very good, so it's a case of put in a piece and climb until its below your feet and put in some more. The rest at the ledge is obligatory for us mere mortals!
Richard White - 19/Sep/06

wow! a must
Climbingmad - 18/Jul/08

Pumpy and sustained, as good as pembroke gets! Superb moves at the top before the ledge.
Stephen Pearson - 26/Jun/10

did this onsight last autum and was expecting a real pump fest, wasn't too pumpy as there is good footholds all the way. John wayne on the other hand was much more pumpy
john nightingale - 09/Jan/11

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Access Issues for Pembroke


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 28
    hard E6 0 of 10
    E6 0 of 10
    easy E6 0 of 10
    hard E5 1 of 10
    E5 8 of 10
    easy E5 1 of 10
    hard E4 0 of 10
    E4 0 of 10
    easy E4 0 of 10
    hard 6b 0 of 9
    6b 0 of 9
    easy 6b 0 of 9
    hard 6a 3 of 9
    6a 5 of 9
    easy 6a 1 of 9
    hard 5c 0 of 9
    5c 0 of 9
    easy 5c 0 of 9
    3 Stars 9 of 9
    2 Stars 0 of 9
    1 Star 0 of 9
    0 Stars 0 of 9
    Bag of ..... 0 of 9

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.