Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 28
Sustained and well protected climbing and, like all good cruxes, it's at the top! Start at the same point as Raw Recruits. Climb to the right-hand side of a roof and break rightwards up the crack which is followed with increasing difficulty to a big flat hold. The next bit is best climbed as quickly as possible without thinking too much about your gear. Finish up a short groove above.
Superb. A doddle to top rope (French 6c?), but very pumpy to place the gear on lead. I rationed myself to wires every 10/12 feet, when you could quite easily aid the whole route. There's barely a move more than 5c, but it goes on an on. When I on-sighted it years ago, I lay down when I got to the resting ledge and de-pumped for 20 minutes before topping out, ignoring the bored jeers of the onlookers.
Agree with John, don't put in too much gear or you will use it. All the gear is very good, so it's a case of put in a piece and climb until its below your feet and put in some more. The rest at the ledge is obligatory for us mere mortals!
wow! a must
Pumpy and sustained, as good as pembroke gets! Superb moves at the top before the ledge.
did this onsight last autum and was expecting a real pump fest, wasn't too pumpy as there is good footholds all the way. John wayne on the other hand was much more pumpy