Tactitian Top 50

2 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< No Man's Land < War Games  |  Blucher > Depraved >>


35m. This excellent and popular route follows the big corner above the centre of the ledge but it does have a bit of a stopper move at half-height. Climb a short corner and then move right into the main corner. Follow this to the top.
FA. Jeff Lamb 31.12.76

USER COMMENTS

Great route. I bridged the difficult corner which was hard, my brother laybacked on the second. Would need big cojonas to do that on the lead!
Pat Wilson - 06/Jun/05

Good route, but sees numerous failures on the one move crux by people who go on to do The Arrow clean.
John Alcock - 26/Aug/05

There has been some recent rockfall near the top (early Sept 2005). No reason not to do this great route, but go easy on the last 10 feet or so if you don't want to send rocks onto your belayer.
Mike Redmayne - 05/Sep/05

The block refered to in the comments was removed safely one evening in late August after it was found in a very dangerous state. One pull, on what looked like a perfect jug, would have brought a huge block on top of leader and second! The ease in which it was kicked off confirmed its very dangerous state. Now safe and no change in grade.
Richard Griffiths - 12/Jan/06

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Access Issues for Pembroke


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 57
    hard E1 0 of 19
    E1 0 of 19
    easy E1 1 of 19
    hard HVS 10 of 19
    HVS 8 of 19
    easy HVS 0 of 19
    hard VS 0 of 19
    VS 0 of 19
    easy VS 0 of 19
    hard 5b 0 of 19
    5b 0 of 19
    easy 5b 2 of 19
    hard 5a 6 of 19
    5a 11 of 19
    easy 5a 0 of 19
    hard 4c 0 of 19
    4c 0 of 19
    easy 4c 0 of 19
    3 Stars 8 of 19
    2 Stars 7 of 19
    1 Star 4 of 19
    0 Stars 0 of 19
    Bag of ..... 0 of 19

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.