Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 5
A direct line up the wall between Tactician and Deranged - not quite as good as its neighbours but still very worthwhile. Start just right of Tactician and climb up a crack rightwards to meet Deranged. Follow this for 4m then step left and climb a groove to a ledge. Finish straight up the wall above.
One of the biggest sandbags in Pembroke. Many find it E3 if climbed direct. Even if lots of deviations onto Deranged are made, the bottom crack alone is surely E25c
The start is desperate (eg couldn't do it) so a start up deranged makes the route more balanced. Then it is about E2 5b/c 2*. Worth doing.
Just thought I'd check what others had thought of this, it's an absolute sandbag at E1. I failed miserably on the first crack & saw little point in deviation. Ricochet is much easier.
I'd agree with John, a classic sandbag. E3 seemed closer to the mark if you stay out of Deranged.
Glad to hear that I'm not the only one to fail miserably at the start.
this is no way E1, its hard E2 or even E3 if climbed directly. also, theres no way this is no stars - 2 or 3 more like: a superb climb with sustained, varied and technical climbing, very worthwhile.