Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 6
The route up the wall right of Deranged has a steep start with a wicked move. Start 4m right of Deranged. Pull up the wall on huge holds until they run out then make a hard move to a ledge. Move up then swing right onto a slabby groove which leads more easily to a break below the overhanging headwall. Finger traverse right to the arete, then move back left to a large hold above. Finish direct.
I tried a cunning sequence slightly right and fell off! returned to some more straight forward crimping and sidepulls slightly left and that worked just fine. Suggest that you remove "Make a baffling move upwards" it pursuaded me to try something bizzare instead of the obvious!