Shot by Both Sides
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Just right of Draught Dodger is an attractive short groove with some bits of fixed gear in it. Climb straight up the steep wall, keeping just left of a roof, into the groove. Follow this with great difficulty to a rest at the top. Continue up the right-hand edge of the wall above with some hard moves up steep cracks to gain a ledge on the arete. Finish more easily above.
FA. Gary Gibson 4.5.86