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This is probably the most popular route at this end of St. Govan's. The 1st pitch is superb and the 2nd pitch is well positioned. The only drawback is the dodgy finish on worrying holds.
1) 25m. Climb into the cave then traverse right for 5m to a ledge beneath a groove. Climb this and continue to a small overhang. Move right to a crack and climb it until another crack on the right can be reached. This leads to the main break where a step right gains a good belay ledge.
2) 20m. Climb the right-hand groove above the stance to where it ends. Make a tricky step up and left onto the face and continue taking care with every hold. Belay on the stake.
FA. P.Littlejohn 11.5.78
Did this for the second time recently and found that the description/line of pitch 2 above the groove is very arbirary. I climbed a wandering line trending R, based on likely gear placements and the best rock I could find (which was scarce)! See recent rockfall news!
Ian M - 20/Jan/06
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