War and Peace/Raskolnikov
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Adjacent Routes << Crime of the Century < Crime and Punishment | Crimes of Passion > Stray Bullet >>
Fallen down.
Well it has been done and although it will never become a classic, because of its grade, it is one of the most impressive routes around. Start just left of a block in a recessed cave.
1) 25m. Climb up the left-hand side of the cave and the wall above to a thin break. Move up left into a small groove and leave this rightwards up a steep flakeline. Swing left to a rest below the roof. Pull out rightwards past some pegs which are very hard to clip. Then make more hard moves direct up the wall to the main break and belay.
2) 20m. Climb a thin crack just right of the belay then continue up the wall on tiny holds to the top break. Finish more easily above. FA. S.Monks 8.6.90. FA. (P2) P.Oxley 1988
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