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An excellent route at a slightly more amenable grade and for once it isn't bold. Start just left of the square cave, below a niche at 3m.
1) 25m. Climb past the niche to the rightwards leaning groove above. Climb up to the exposed top corner of the cave then swing left onto a hanging arete. Climb straight up, with difficulty, to the break and belay 4m left on a ledge.
2) 20m. Climb the corner behind the belay. At its top move leftwards up to the break. Traverse right along this then move up rightwards onto a slab. Finish up cracks above or any bit of solid rock you can find.
FA. P.Littlejohn 18.4.81
is it me, or are the top pitches of routes round here like death loose blocks held together by mud.
felly - 10/Jul/05
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