Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 2
Originally climbed with some bits of drilled gear, the right-hand side of the smooth wall now gives an awesome route which has become surprisingly popular (F7c). Start at a thin crack below and right of the smooth wall (as for Hysteria). Climb the crack for 5m then move left to a ledge. Attack the desperate crack above to gain some reasonable but hard-earned protection. Move left to a thread and a rest - crucial runner in slot to back-up thread. Climb up above then make a difficult undercut traverse rightwards and move back left to two threads. Move up into some scoops (old pegs - not crucial) above then climb the wall to a wide crack which leads to Mysteries. Finish direct up the headwall which is still taxing.
F7c and a grade of E6 6b implies hard, but safe. This route is actually pretty bold, with a hidden, crucial wire and long runout to the two upper threads. If it's E6, then it's very top end compared to other routes at this grade in the area.