Mysteries

3 Stars
Technical
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Hysteria < Suspense  |  Ghost Train > The Shield >>

After a hard start the most famous route in the Ford gives steady HVS climbing up the impressive scoop-line. The lack of grade consistency slightly detracts from the route and it is a fairly low E3 but the start shouldn't be underestimated since it is a little bold. Start below the long scoop-line.
1) 5c, 20m. Climb the scoop with difficulty then follow the ramp up leftwards for 10m and belay where it is most comfortable.
2) 5a, 25m. Continue up the scoops, past a small bulge, to the horizontal break. Move left for 5m then climb past some holes in the wall to a corner on the left. Finish up this.
FA. Pat Littlejohn 13.11.77

USER COMMENTS

Well hard start with crux at about 7m (small wires/cams). very good route though - scond pitch worth E1 5b and very atmospheric.
pylonking - 07/Apr/06

A fine old rambling mountaineering type adventure. Probably E2 as the interesting and fun scoopy crux is well protected and over fairly quickly. The top pitch still has a fair challenge, and in a good position.
Fiend - 10/Apr/06

An impressive line, with an exciting but protectable first 10m. The rest is a bit of a disappointment really ... and care is needed with route finding on the second pitch.
Chris Parson - 04/Sep/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 35
    hard E4 0 of 12
    E4 0 of 12
    easy E4 0 of 12
    hard E3 0 of 12
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    hard 6a 0 of 11
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    easy 6a 0 of 11
    hard 5c 3 of 11
    5c 8 of 11
    easy 5c 0 of 11
    hard 5b 0 of 11
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    3 Stars 4 of 12
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