Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 35
After a hard start the most famous route in the Ford gives steady HVS climbing up the impressive scoop-line. The lack of grade consistency slightly detracts from the route and it is a fairly low E3 but the start shouldn't be underestimated since it is a little bold. Start below the long scoop-line.</br>1) 5c, 20m. Climb the scoop with difficulty then follow the ramp up leftwards for 10m and belay where it is most comfortable.</br>2) 5a, 25m. Continue up the scoops, past a small bulge, to the horizontal break. Move left for 5m then climb past some holes in the wall to a corner on the left. Finish up this.
Well hard start with crux at about 7m (small wires/cams). very good route though - scond pitch worth E1 5b and very atmospheric.
A fine old rambling mountaineering type adventure. Probably E2 as the interesting and fun scoopy crux is well protected and over fairly quickly. The top pitch still has a fair challenge, and in a good position.
An impressive line, with an exciting but protectable first 10m. The rest is a bit of a disappointment really ... and care is needed with route finding on the second pitch.