Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 17
This route looks okay until you abseil down it. It is only then that you realise how steep the wall is. Has been described as a F7a+ with one long and serious run-out. Start at a crunchy flake to the right of Mysteries. Climb the initial wall past flakes (very low thread) to the large break and huge thread runners. Take a deep breath and attack the wall above, moving right to a thin flakeline. Climb this in a position of increasing seriousness to hopefully gain another thread. Follow the easier flake to a break then step right and climb direct to the top.
8 threads and a spicey runout. F7a+ climbing. E5?
This route should not be underestimated. Gets E7 in the CC guide. If you don't make the thread above the hard climbing then your looking at a ground fall from a long way up. Still worth E7 if done ground up and ON SIGHT !
After three of us did this yesterday, and lengthy debate, we reckoned E6 6a is about right. The climbing is steady, about 7a on positive holds. Way easier than a lot of E5's round here (yellow pearls, grey english). The run out is pretty huge, but you're very unlikely to come off the last couple of moves to it, as the holds are huge at that point. The top section is steep but the holds get bigger and bigger. Definitely nowhere near E7.