Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 70
One of Pembroke's most famous routes follows the shiny arete. There is a bit of polish at the start, but not higher up where it matters. Make a steep pull up to the break, then swing left and move up to place some wires (possibly the crux). Climb the fingery wall above to reach better holds. Trend rightwards under some bulges then move up onto a large ledge. Climb the corner above and exit a little further right than is obvious.
a classic rout but felt hard for the grade
An excellent and very substantial route that whilst never desperate, packs in a challenging mixture of bold, committing, sustained, and cruxy climbing. Interesting all the way from the thuggy start (very little polish I thought?) to the slightly shocking finish.
The low crux sequence is a little bold and contains quite sustained 5c climbing. The wall above is technically easier but very tiring - fortunately you can have a sit down on the ledge! Final move is a tricky 5b "I really don't want to fall off now" affair but you're well recovered by this point. Brilliant route!
BTW a jammed nut and some manky tat were in-situ when I did it.
such a lovely route and all the time i had groove armada's 'sunlover' in my heed...winner. went too direct at the top which was quite good fun if a little sort of...steep.
It used to be possible to place a good no.6 wire from standing in the first break. Now that slot doesn't take a wire - it takes a yellow TCU, but without that it will feel a lot bolder than it used to.
Needs micro walnuts in the slot above the break before the crux or u is in trouble good nut slot went 20+ yrs ago great route