Sunlover Top 50

3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< The Bitch < Joan  |  Pearl Powder > Yellow Pearls >>


30m. One of Pembroke’s most famous routes follows the shiny arete. There is a bit of polish at the start, but not higher up where it matters. Make a steep pull up to the break, then swing left and move up to place some wires (possibly the crux). Climb the fingery wall above to reach better holds. Trend rightwards under some bulges then move up onto a large ledge. Climb the corner above and exit a little further right than is obvious.
FA. Nick Colton 5.4.80

USER COMMENTS

a classic rout but felt hard for the grade
dave - 09/May/05

An excellent and very substantial route that whilst never desperate, packs in a challenging mixture of bold, committing, sustained, and cruxy climbing. Interesting all the way from the thuggy start (very little polish I thought?) to the slightly shocking finish.
Fiend - 10/Apr/06

The low crux sequence is a little bold and contains quite sustained 5c climbing. The wall above is technically easier but very tiring - fortunately you can have a sit down on the ledge! Final move is a tricky 5b "I really don't want to fall off now" affair but you're well recovered by this point. Brilliant route!
Alun - 18/Apr/06

BTW a jammed nut and some manky tat were in-situ when I did it.
Alun - 18/Apr/06

such a lovely route and all the time i had groove armada's 'sunlover' in my heed...winner. went too direct at the top which was quite good fun if a little sort of...steep.
Evan Holdsworth - 06/May/10

It used to be possible to place a good no.6 wire from standing in the first break. Now that slot doesn't take a wire - it takes a yellow TCU, but without that it will feel a lot bolder than it used to.
Adrian Berry - 21/Jun/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 70
    hard E4 0 of 24
    E4 0 of 24
    easy E4 2 of 24
    hard E3 7 of 24
    E3 13 of 24
    easy E3 2 of 24
    hard E2 0 of 24
    E2 0 of 24
    easy E2 0 of 24
    hard 6a 0 of 24
    6a 0 of 24
    easy 6a 0 of 24
    hard 5c 7 of 24
    5c 16 of 24
    easy 5c 1 of 24
    hard 5b 0 of 24
    5b 0 of 24
    easy 5b 0 of 24
    3 Stars 21 of 22
    2 Stars 1 of 22
    1 Star 0 of 22
    0 Stars 0 of 22
    Bag of ..... 0 of 22

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