Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 30
30m. A stunning climb which follows the crackline above and right of the Sunlover start. Move right out of Sunlover then climb up to the fingery cracks which swallow wires. Hard moves lead to the break where a grovelling mantel gains the ledge on the right. Climb the easier, but still testing, wall on the left to a junction with Sunlover at the ledge. Finish as for this. Feels around F7a+.
Found this hard for the grade, and sustained. Know a few people who have taken large falls off this getting very close to the ground. There is a lot of sharp holds in the cracks which can be painfull, this aside the route is fantastic but the mantel makes you think especially when knackered.
Climbing desparately through the crux I realised it wasn't possible to hang around and put in any gear. Marti looked up in terror as he realised a fall would put me on the deck next to him! Thankfully that didn't happen and once the rest is reached, the climbing eases off.
If you can down-climb all the way from the break back down to the ground, having placed your wires, then good for you! If not, it'll feel like a run-out 7a+ as you contemplate fluffing the mantel...