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A stunning route up the big wall right of the cave. The top pitch is like climbing a line of bolt-on jugs up the bow of a ship! Photo this page and page 156.
1) 6a, 20m. Climb the awkward lower wall to a small roof. Move up and left onto a nicely-placed sloping ledge. Step left to a hole then climb up and back right via a hard move and continue easily to the ledge.
2) 5c, 20m. The loose groove on the right leads to a ledge below a flake crack. Arrange some gear in this, then swing left along a finger traverse line to a thread. Make a hard move up then move right onto the arete which is followed to the top.
FA. Gary Gibson 26.2.88
an absolutely classic top pitch, steep, exposed but well protected!
dave - 09/May/05
We thought it was going to be all about the top pitch. turns out the 1st pitch is quite hard, and the top pitch steep but basically ok. Really good route, but be up for it on the 1st pitch
Ged Desforges - 08/May/07
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