Trevallen Pillar Top 50

3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
 E4 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< The Fascist and Me < The Coriolis Affair  |  Ships that Pass in the Night > Abandon Ship >>


45m. A majestic climb which provides an excellent introduction to Pembroke E4s. It was traditionally climbed in two pitches with a belay at the break on the left. Now most people link them into one long pitch due to the difficulty of belaying the initial move of the old pitch 2. Step off the monster pebble and climb a short groove and crack to the break. Move right and pull up into a leftwards rising line of holds. Follow this to its end then make a tricky pull up above and continue to the small cave (possible belay). Arrange some gear above then swing right and climb the shiny grey slab - hard at first but it gets easier. Continue up the steep wall above to the top. Photo on back cover flap.
FA. Jon de Montjoye, Ian Parsons 20.6.81

USER COMMENTS

The second pitch is probably more serious than the 1st, its quite run out initially and should be respected as much as the 1st pitch
craig h - 03/Mar/05

I've yet to do it but (tide allowing) is it not a bad idea to run the two pitches together, makes it a bit safer?
Paz - 04/Mar/05

You would get pretty bad rope drag
Adam Lincoln - 18/Nov/05

I ran it together as it seemed the best thing to do and don't remember any problems
Simon Lee - 18/Nov/05

The over riding issue would be the tide coming in.
But you don't get any drag if you extend the anchors and you get away from the stench of bird shit.
Paz - 28/Nov/05

Doing it in one pitch is a far better option. You'll only get rope drag if you don't manage your ropes properly. Once on the jug of the second pitch you should spend less than 30 seconds on the remainder!
martin k - 19/Apr/06

Doing it in 1 pitch seems to make more sense. Put in a bunch of runners at the ledge with long slings and the ropes run fine. The crux on the 1st pitch is not easy! brilliant route
Ged Desforges - 08/May/07

the insit gear on the crux of the first pitch was welded in but old and made it feel abit more spicy than placing my own
john nightingale - 09/Jan/11

Don't recall any insit gear ... I normally avoid 'fluttery' routes but this seemed quite well-protected? Note the slight discrepancy in line of the 2nd pitch compared to the new CC guide, which indicates climbing the arete (rather than the 'shiny grey slab').
Chris Parson - 01/Sep/11

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  • Access Issues for Pembroke


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 63
    hard E5 0 of 21
    E5 0 of 21
    easy E5 0 of 21
    hard E4 1 of 21
    E4 9 of 21
    easy E4 8 of 21
    hard E3 3 of 21
    E3 0 of 21
    easy E3 0 of 21
    hard 6b 0 of 21
    6b 0 of 21
    easy 6b 0 of 21
    hard 6a 1 of 21
    6a 12 of 21
    easy 6a 7 of 21
    hard 5c 1 of 21
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    3 Stars 20 of 21
    2 Stars 1 of 21
    1 Star 0 of 21
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