Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 66
45m. A majestic climb which provides an excellent introduction to Pembroke E4s. It was traditionally climbed in two pitches with a belay at the break on the left. Now most people link them into one long pitch due to the difficulty of belaying the initial move of the old pitch 2. Step off the monster pebble and climb a short groove and crack to the break. Move right and pull up into a leftwards rising line of holds. Follow this to its end then make a tricky pull up above and continue to the small cave (possible belay). Arrange some gear above then swing right and climb the shiny grey slab - hard at first but it gets easier. Continue up the steep wall above to the top. Photo on back cover flap.
The second pitch is probably more serious than the 1st, its quite run out initially and should be respected as much as the 1st pitch
I've yet to do it but (tide allowing) is it not a bad idea to run the two pitches together, makes it a bit safer?
You would get pretty bad rope drag
I ran it together as it seemed the best thing to do and don't remember any problems
The over riding issue would be the tide coming in.
Doing it in one pitch is a far better option. You'll only get rope drag if you don't manage your ropes properly. Once on the jug of the second pitch you should spend less than 30 seconds on the remainder!
Doing it in 1 pitch seems to make more sense. Put in a bunch of runners at the ledge with long slings and the ropes run fine. The crux on the 1st pitch is not easy! brilliant route
the insit gear on the crux of the first pitch was welded in but old and made it feel abit more spicy than placing my own
Don't recall any insit gear ... I normally avoid 'fluttery' routes but this seemed quite well-protected? Note the slight discrepancy in line of the 2nd pitch compared to the new CC guide, which indicates climbing the arete (rather than the 'shiny grey slab').