Dogs of Hoare

3 Stars
Fluttery
 E5 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Abandon Ship < Sachsenring  |  Just Another Dog > Soldier of Fortune >>


Here we go again, another superb route with a bold bit! This time you are allowed a pitch to warm up on. Start below the groove midway between the arete and the big central corner.
1) 6a, 20m. Climb the groove to a crack. Move right to another crack and follow this to the ledge.
2) 6a, 25m. Climb a short way up the flake above the belay and stick some gear in. Move right to a tiny wire then right again to a chunky side hold. Make a committing move upwards to large holds - bold because you will hit the ledge if the wire pulls, which it probably will. Step back left and climb up the wide crack and superbly-exposed groove above.
FA. Jon de Montjoye 20.3.82

USER COMMENTS

A better description would be '...committing move upwards to large, but dubious holds. Continue more easily straight up the steep wide crack and stunning steep groove above.'
toby - 26/Aug/08

I followed the line exactly and thought this was a long way away from E5. First pitch good little E4, second - move above belay following flake - excellent wirte and sling over a spike - step down and right (couldn't find any tiny wire - didn't need it) and made the traverse right - felt soft for 6a, a fall would be nowhere near the ledge. Thought the holds were all solid.
Adrian Berry - 21/Jun/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 9
    hard E6 0 of 3
    E6 0 of 3
    easy E6 0 of 3
    hard E5 0 of 3
    E5 2 of 3
    easy E5 0 of 3
    hard E4 1 of 3
    E4 0 of 3
    easy E4 0 of 3
    hard 6b 0 of 3
    6b 0 of 3
    easy 6b 0 of 3
    hard 6a 0 of 3
    6a 1 of 3
    easy 6a 2 of 3
    hard 5c 0 of 3
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    3 Stars 2 of 3
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