Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 12
Here we go again, another superb route with a bold bit! This time you are allowed a pitch to warm up on. Start below the groove midway between the arete and the big central corner. </br>1) 6a, 20m. Climb the groove to a crack. Move right to another crack and follow this to the ledge. </br>2) 6a, 25m. Climb a short way up the flake above the belay and stick some gear in. Move right to a tiny wire then right again to a chunky side hold. Make a committing move upwards to large holds - bold because you will hit the ledge if the wire pulls, which it probably will. Step back left and climb up the wide crack and superbly-exposed groove above.
A better description would be '...committing move upwards to large, but dubious holds. Continue more easily straight up the steep wide crack and stunning steep groove above.'
I followed the line exactly and thought this was a long way away from E5. First pitch good little E4, second - move above belay following flake - excellent wirte and sling over a spike - step down and right (couldn't find any tiny wire - didn't need it) and made the traverse right - felt soft for 6a, a fall would be nowhere near the ledge. Thought the holds were all solid.