Fortune Cookie

2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
 E6 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< Soldier of Fortune < Private Schultz  |  High Pressure > The Honeymoon Killers >>


The wall just right of Soldier of Fortune gives a big hard pitch which makes some of the others on this wall look like Sunday afternoon strolls. A big cam is crucial for the start.
1) 6b, 35m. Climb the wall moving slightly left to a small groove (thread). Move up and left and climb the right arete of the groove above to a good flake hold. Hard moves gain the break and yet more hard moves gain a standing position above the roof. Exit left to better holds and the belay ledge on the right.
2) 5c, 10m. Finish up the crack in the left wall of the recess.
FA. Gary Gibson 3.90. Originally it was climbed with drilled gear, this was removed and the route re-climbed.

USER COMMENTS

There's currently a peg in-situ above the thread and below the break. Is this the original drilled placement?
Simon Witcher - 03/Oct/07

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