Fortune Cookie

2 Stars
 E6 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< Soldier of Fortune < Private Schultz  |  High Pressure > The Honeymoon Killers >>

The wall just right of Soldier of Fortune gives a big hard pitch which makes some of the others on this wall look like Sunday afternoon strolls. A big cam is crucial for the start.</br>1) 6b, 35m. Climb the wall moving slightly left to a small groove (thread). Move up and left and climb the right arete of the groove above to a good flake hold. Hard moves gain the break and yet more hard moves gain a standing position above the roof. Exit left to better holds and the belay ledge on the right. </br>2) 5c, 10m. Finish up the crack in the left wall of the recess.
FA. Gary Gibson 3.90. Originally it was climbed with drilled gear, this was removed and the route re-climbed.


There's currently a peg in-situ above the thread and below the break. Is this the original drilled placement?
Simon Witcher - 03/Oct/07

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