Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 3
A long pitch up the wall above the large roof. Beware of rope drag if you do it in one run-out - extend your runners. Alternatively, split it at a hanging belay in the breaks. Start up the steep groove below the roof and climb to a traverse line by a thread on the right. Move right for 6m until below a crack on the right edge of the roof. Climb up through the roof and up the wall above to a small ledge on the left. Now head rightwards across the unprotected wall to a wide crack. Move up then back leftwards to reach an easy finishing corner.
A very good climb as far as the resting ledge above the roof. The top wall and groove is quite bold and scary, a few footholds snapped on me. Combined with some horrific rope drag it turned into an epic. I placed a lot of long slings on gear, and still got bad drag, might be worth considering taking a belay at the end of the traverse and doing it in 2 pitches.
As The commenst above say, a serious test of ropework. Take plenty of short slings and extend everything to do it in one pitch. Felt very similar to "Get Some In".