Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 7
A bold route up the left arete of the buttress. Start below the left arete of the square buttress right of the mud-filled chimney. Climb up to a small roof and pass this on its left. Move back right above it and follow the right-hand side of the arete above. This is easy at first but it steepens up at the top.
Considerably bolder than you'd expect for an E2 5c. Top end E3 / Soft E4 would seem reasonable, for the run out to the top.
I agree with ChrisC. It's a really bold, strenuous route with a potential monster from the overhanging top section. E2 my arse!
Dear guide book writers, I don't think anyone who has actually climbed this route would give it an E2. Also it has been upgraded to an E4 in the Climber's Club guide.