New Morning

2 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Diedre Sud < The Right Wall  |  Ice Breaker > Razorbill >>


This route is best known as a finish to Heart of Darkness but it does have a reasonable 1st pitch. Abseil to the base of Diedre Sud.
1) 5a, 20m. Traverse right for 5m then climb up steeply to reach a shallow corner. Follow it to a small ledge on the left. Continue over a bulge, and the groove above, to reach the line of breaks. Move up to another break and traverse right to belay on a ledge.
2) 5b, 18m. Move rightwards up a flake to gain the fine wide crack which leads to the top.
FA. Jim Perrin 11.8.71

USER COMMENTS

Only climbed the second pitch (with HoD 1st pitch), it's fantastic but definately merits E1.
Mattress - 06/Jul/05

E1 without a doubt. A HVS leader would be have a pretty torrid time of it on P2.
Tony Holdsworth - 17/Aug/05

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 13
    hard E2 0 of 1
    E2 0 of 1
    easy E2 0 of 1
    hard E1 0 of 1
    E1 0 of 1
    easy E1 1 of 1
    hard HVS 0 of 1
    HVS 0 of 1
    easy HVS 0 of 1
    hard 5c 0 of 6
    5c 0 of 6
    easy 5c 0 of 6
    hard 5b 0 of 6
    5b 6 of 6
    easy 5b 0 of 6
    hard 5a 0 of 6
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    3 Stars 3 of 6
    2 Stars 3 of 6
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