Heart of Darkness Top 50

3 Stars
 HVS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Razorbill < Flax of Dream  |  Heart of Darkness/New Morning > In One Door >>

One of the best HVS’s in Britain. It is a bit like Dream of White Horses - no hard moves or bold bits, just mega holds and exposure. Best done in the afternoon to give the cave a chance to dry out. Start from the ledge, as described above.
1) 4c, 30m. Climb up the arete on the left to reach the line of breaks. Follow the breaks leftwards into the corner then step down. Continue traversing to a small ledge on the arete and belay.
2) 4c, 25m. Move left to a small corner then climb up to the belay ledge of Razorbill. Move left again then drop slightly down and follow the breaks into Diedre Sud.
3) 4a, 15m. Finish up Diedre Sud.
FA. Jim Perrin 13.8.71


Truly a great 'experience' - I seconded it and it was scary - not at all like seconding your average HVS!
Reds - 02/Mar/05

Climbed the first pitch (with New Morning Finish), excellent route. Good holds and gear keep appearing just when you start to get nervous. Similar to Exposure Explosion (Ogmore).
Mattress - 06/Jul/05

Wow!!! Just as good to second as to lead, never hard just utterly gripping.
derek morton - 04/Sep/06

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 30
    hard E1 0 of 10
    E1 0 of 10
    easy E1 0 of 10
    hard HVS 0 of 10
    HVS 5 of 10
    easy HVS 5 of 10
    hard VS 0 of 10
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    hard 5a 0 of 10
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    easy 5a 0 of 10
    hard 4c 1 of 10
    4c 8 of 10
    easy 4c 1 of 10
    hard 4b 0 of 10
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    3 Stars 10 of 10
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