Heart of Darkness Top 50

3 Stars
 HVS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Razorbill < Flax of Dream  |  Heart of Darkness/New Morning > In One Door >>

One of the best HVS's in Britain. It is a bit like Dream of White Horses - no hard moves or bold bits, just mega holds and exposure. Best done in the afternoon to give the cave a chance to dry out. Start from the ledge, as described above.</br>1) 4c, 30m. Climb up the arete on the left to reach the line of breaks. Follow the breaks leftwards into the corner then step down. Continue traversing to a small ledge on the arete and belay.</br>2) 4c, 25m. Move left to a small corner then climb up to the belay ledge of Razorbill. Move left again then drop slightly down and follow the breaks into Diedre Sud.</br>3) 4a, 15m. Finish up Diedre Sud.
FA. Jim Perrin 13.8.71


Truly a great 'experience' - I seconded it and it was scary - not at all like seconding your average HVS!
Reds - 02/Mar/05

Climbed the first pitch (with New Morning Finish), excellent route. Good holds and gear keep appearing just when you start to get nervous. Similar to Exposure Explosion (Ogmore).
Mattress - 06/Jul/05

Wow!!! Just as good to second as to lead, never hard just utterly gripping.
derek morton - 04/Sep/06

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 30
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    hard HVS 0 of 10
    HVS 5 of 10
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    hard 4c 1 of 10
    4c 8 of 10
    easy 4c 1 of 10
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