Heaven's Door

3 Stars
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Always the Sun < Cruise to Hell  |  The Big Sleep > Second Shadow >>

A superb route which takes the right-hand of the two cracks on the left side of the headwall. At high tide it is possible to abseil straight to the stance and just do the top pitch which is very atmospheric when the sea is in. Start at a rightwards facing corner below the right-hand side of the headwall.</br>1) 5a, 10m. Climb the corner to a ledge on the left (often wet).</br>2) 5c, 25m. Move up and left, on large holds, to a short arete. Continue with difficulty to the right-hand crack and climb this.
FA. Pat Littlejohn 4.77


Second pitch VERY steep!!
Rose - 31/Mar/05

The experience can be extended by doing this in one big pitch...making the moves through the overhang feel even more 'out there' than they already do! marvellous!
martin k - 12/Sep/05

Physically the hardest thing I've climbed this year. Superb climbing, amazing position, well recommended :-)
Mark Stevenson - 30/Mar/06

Anyone else notice the rocking block just nefore pulling into the cracks?
Rory - 11/Aug/09

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  • Access Issues for Pembroke

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 13
    hard E4 0 of 3
    E4 0 of 3
    easy E4 0 of 3
    hard E3 0 of 3
    E3 2 of 3
    easy E3 0 of 3
    hard E2 1 of 3
    E2 0 of 3
    easy E2 0 of 3
    hard 6a 0 of 3
    6a 0 of 3
    easy 6a 0 of 3
    hard 5c 0 of 3
    5c 3 of 3
    easy 5c 0 of 3
    hard 5b 0 of 3
    5b 0 of 3
    easy 5b 0 of 3
    3 Stars 7 of 7
    2 Stars 0 of 7
    1 Star 0 of 7
    0 Stars 0 of 7
    Bag of ..... 0 of 7

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