Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 18
12m. Climb the narrow slab passing a small roof with difficulty. Finish up the side of the prow above for extra interest.
If the line in the topo is right, the move over the small roof is not 4b. I'd guess at 5a, but it's so much harder than what I can do that it might be 5b for all I know. Judging by the polish, most people move onto the rib on the left and fight through the heather to get over the roof. Protection at this point is at foot level. The rest of the route is easy, depending on exactly where you're supposed to climb the prow (where protection is also conspicuous by its absence). But the grade is academic anyway, the route is truly awful. Did anyone actually climb it when researching the guide?
Don't bother groping around for solid holds on the roof. It's mostly hand friction but the rock is rough enough. After the roof it is a romp.
I took my first lead fall on this route! I was attempting it following the line in the guide, I was walking my hands up the slopers on top of the roof, and my hand just slipped off completely catching me by surprise. Luckily the gear was good - a no. 3 Rock Empire in the break under the roof, and a no. 8(?) nut in the crack on the left.
Awful? I'm dissapointed in you Simon. The move over the overlap may be a sandbag at Severe but its delightful and unusual. The finish left on the prow is also good: harder and less artificial than it looks as well. HS 4b*
Me and my mate Bal did this route and thouht it was well good. I lead and thought the overhang move deserved the technical grade at 5a.
Well good? Not how I recall it Jason! One move wonder, easy to get wrong but safe with high side runner