Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 24
12m. Climb the square-fronted buttress direct with the crux passing the low bulge by a fingery stretch. Using either arete lowers the grade to 5b, not bad for an ancient Severe.
Just one hard move, which is well protected with (carefully placed) Friend-1. Nice route.
My 'carefully' placed freind 1 decided to rip sending me the 12feet or so onto the rocks below,resulting in me bouncing off one rock on my cocksix to another on my head (i dint have a lid on). it was a very painful second.
Another vote for the cam not holding.
HVS 5b (if the gear holds), otherwise E1
It's definately 5c if you don't use the aretes. You can also get a wire and a good friend placement.
Avoiding the arete with hands is easy - avoiding it with toes is much harder! E1 5c and quite nice.