Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 47
The main groove is taken on excellent jams to the overhang and an awkward rest. Ape leftward (the tall can bridge it) to gain a square-cut groove. Up this to finish.
The main groove is easier to layback than to jam. And the top of the corner is a good rest - I know, I was there for 20 minutes when doing Nelson's Nemesis! Every bit as good as the latter route, interest is sustained to the top.
Think about gear placement under roof as rope drag can be significant. Route at top seemed to be back right - not straight up. Probably only worth Severe 4a - but a hard one.
it is wery polished at the start but things ease with hight. P.S there is no rests
Sorry watson, there most certainly is a rest, as I said I used it at some length. In fact you can see it in Rob's photo.
My comment re: gear under roof was because I, like Simon, spent an awfully long time on the 'rest' failing to put a bit of gear in to protect the traverse..in the end I gave up and all was fine - but I still got a lot of drag on the rope...So I must back up Simon's comments re: 'rest' (assuming you can balance)
Enjoyed this route, a lot, so there.
Fantastic route, really enjoyed it! It's got everything - a layback (I agree that it's more of a layback than a jamming crack), small ledges, big reaches, slab finish (we managed to finish straight up).
Almost every bit as good as Nemesis - a great step left under the roof. I would recommend (as with the above comments) laybacking and not jamming, as there's plenty to use if you put a little distance between you and the crack.