Nelson's NemesisRoute Grade Votings
Total votes cast 141
Adjacent Routes
16m. Climb the main corner to the roof as for Horatio's Horror then traverse right, with a crucial foot change on a shiny 'button', to reach the base of the continuation crack. Up this to a ledge and an exit on the left on huge holds. USER COMMENTS
I can't understand the grade on this one. To me, VS 4b implies either poor protection or sustained 4b. But this route has only one hard move, protected by above-the-head gear. So it's either VS 4c or HS 4b. Either way, it's superb!
Did it in wet condition - Definate VS 4c in wet! Can imagine that it should be 4b in dry.
Superb. Felt like VS 4c to me though quite easy 4c and good gear. Quite exposed on the front face (after the crux).
Superb. Felt like VS 4c to me though quite easy 4c and good gear. Quite exposed on the front face (after the crux).
Excelent route, the pull onto the main face is great and soo exposed
Hey! lets do all the routes in the wet and give them different grades !!!!
Superb moves, not as hard as it looks.
I did it in the dry, so feel unqualified to comment on it's wet grade
I thought VS 4b was quite a good grade for this, as although the move right was probably only about 4b, and there is good gear in the horizontal crack, it is a more committing move than on HS, and exposed once you've done it.
Didn't see any 'crucial foot swap', just kept feet on the tiny ledge on the rh wall and then a long reach rockover onto the arete. VS 4b good as you'd take a swing into the wall if you fell.
that move across had me sweating
The right arete of Nelson's Nemesis is a good E5 6a/b solo,Tom's Arete,which I named after Tom Proctor died.Birchen was his favourite solo crag.
Deserves the hype - great step out into space. Soft VS, 4b, and definitely 3*.
Polished but a very good route. Easy for VS, but too sustained to be a HS.
Excellent climb! Not sure which bit is the polished button though. Moves out under the overhang require a positive approach but are very enjoyable. |