Mort Wall

2 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< None < Sidewinder  |  Slip Arete > Strangler's Groove >>


10m. Climb the centre of the wall, with a tricky start via a niche. Low in the grade and with good gear throughout.
FA. Colin Mortlock 1958

USER COMMENTS

Maybe low in the grade but is still definately HVS 5a, great moves all the way and poor protection with a couple of really small friends (1/2 and 3/4). Great route.
Adam Moroz - 09/Jun/05

Really satisfying climb - short but with a bit of everything... Awkward gymnastic moves off the ground round the bulge and tricky step right followed by slightly off-balance slab climbing. protection is ok - just enough there..
Trekkie June 05
trekkie - 20/Jun/05

Protection is bomb proof above the bulge with rocks? Though by then you've done the hard bit.

Nice climbing.
Steve Marsden - 24/Jun/05

Excellent route, the bulge is the crux - my short seconder couldn't do it - Harder than Tody's Wall. Really good above that, well worth a visit
The Truth - 20/Jul/05

Again, if harvey the login stealing ruiner found this hard for HVS you can probably drop the ´V´to get the correct grade.
the real truth - 20/Jul/05

How could anyone say this route is poorly protected. There are bomber wire placements all the way up. Firstly there's a no1 on the nose of the bulge and then a sinker no 6 above the bulge (can be placed from below). Another couple of medium wires protect the rest of the route. Adam, what route were you on? A fine HVS 5a.
chris davids - 17/Aug/05

Really good route worth a visit just for this. Mild for HVS, bomber wires protect all the way.
Michael - 11/Jul/08

Went left out of niche, getting back into main flake/crack was awkward and off balance. Not worth 2 stars...
mark20 - 21/Jul/09

Very green looking at the mo, but clean enough where it mattered. Not a bad route, would probably only get the one star at most grit crags though.
Jon Leighton - 18/Oct/09

nice contrasting climbing, needs small wires (rock 1 and smaller) or else you will only get 2 worthwhile runners.
David Wright - 15/Mar/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 65
    hard E1 0 of 22
    E1 0 of 22
    easy E1 0 of 22
    hard HVS 0 of 22
    HVS 15 of 22
    easy HVS 6 of 22
    hard VS 1 of 22
    VS 0 of 22
    easy VS 0 of 22
    hard 5b 0 of 22
    5b 0 of 22
    easy 5b 2 of 22
    hard 5a 5 of 22
    5a 13 of 22
    easy 5a 2 of 22
    hard 4c 0 of 22
    4c 0 of 22
    easy 4c 0 of 22
    3 Stars 1 of 21
    2 Stars 13 of 21
    1 Star 7 of 21
    0 Stars 0 of 21
    Bag of ..... 0 of 21

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