Broken Dreams

3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
 7b+

Adjacent Routes
<< Cookie King < Flowers are for the Dead  |  Insomnia > When Saturday Comes >>


16m. An excellent varied climb with a memorable finish. Pull onto the wall from the left and move up to tiny undercuts and side pulls in the slight bulge. A long reach gains a good crimp by the third bolt, move up to reach a good hold in the flake system above and follow this rightwards, peg to enter the niche beneath the capping roof, thread. Pull straight out over the roof (good Rock 4) to the lower-off.
FA John Moulding, John Codling 14.5.88

USER COMMENTS

Gnarly and fingery, great finishing moves
Rob Mirfin - 22/Mar/05

Crucial hold broken at the start - feels way harder now - 7c/+ possibly for first 3 clips alone? Interested to hear what others think about this one...
Dave Ayton - 12/May/09

Had a look at this today, the old way of doing it is well hard now. Managed to start it further left though considerably harder and more moves but quite good probably hard 7c. The first bolt seems to be in completely the wrong place now, another start is possible from the right on some small sharp crimps. I may look at moing the first bolt over slightly ?? an maybe putting one to the right for an alternative start. Any thoughts ??
Robert Mirfin - 25/Apr/10

Phew! I'm glad it wasn't just me going crazy! I tried it again last week and thought the same - i managed the original method but it felt loads harder than El Rincon, Rivals, Elite etc... Moving the bolt or gluing on a small edge where the hold used to be would do the trick alright.
Dave Ayton - 26/Apr/10

The start still goes the old way but the first bit could now be the crux. Broken dreams is probably hard 7c now but still just as good if not better :)
Robert Mirfin - 10/May/10

A good finish.Broken Flowers 7c+ go left near the top on undercuts to finish up Flowers are for the dead.
Robert Mirfin - 21/Jun/10

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 6
    hard 7c 0 of 3
    7c 0 of 3
    easy 7c 1 of 3
    hard 7b+ 2 of 3
    7b+ 0 of 3
    easy 7b+ 0 of 3
    hard 7b 0 of 3
    7b 0 of 3
    easy 7b 0 of 3
    3 Stars 1 of 3
    2 Stars 2 of 3
    1 Star 0 of 3
    0 Stars 0 of 3
    Bag of ..... 0 of 3

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.