Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 49
16m. Undeniably the classic of the crag and one of Clwyd's finest. Pull onto the wall passing a hidden peg and trend leftwards to a second peg. Move right to the bottom of a vague groove, bolt. Climb up the groove to reach a rounded break and bolt. The mother of all mantelshelves attains a standing position on the break, move right to a flake, which takes good small nuts. A final move through a slight bulge leads to the top. Superb. Lower-off staples in the back wall.
Definitely the mid-grade route of the crag. Feels 7a in many ways though the fiddly little wires for the last section maybe make it E4. The mantleshelf comment might count as reverse-beta and make it harder to onsight!
Quite good but not 3 star.Soft touch E4 as its just the one move really E3 6A/B old money
French 7a really,the bit after the mantel is easy. Awesome.
3 stars in my book
Really enjoyed this route, did it just as the sun was dropping behind the hills. Crux involves some delicate balancey moves that need wiring and are very satisfying.
Superb rock. A great E2 spoilt by a desperate move, felt impossible for me at 6'3", must be harder for the tall!
I climbed a new direct finish which adds a bit more spice and possibly tickles the grade up a notch. After the mantle continue directly up via a long reach and another precarious rock over move.
Lee I have a sneaking supsicion that this has been done before. I assume you mean avoiding the Rock 1 on the right. I am sure John Moulding, John Codling or myself have done it before but can't exactly remember when exactly. It would be 1983 ish.
Thank's for the info Gary. I thought it must have been done before because its too obvious to have been missed. Lee
New bolt added by the 2nd peg (Winter 07/08?). Seems likely to become a clip-up.
Whats with all the bolts? Spoils it really as it has become pretty much a sport route. A good route though, which wouldve been better if the BR in the groove wasnt there and the one protecting the crux was slightly lower.
Also, the mantleshelf comment is a bit silly as i didnt do a ridiculos mantleshelf, and people should be able to work things out when they get to them rather than being 'told'...