Climb High Top 50

3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
 E4 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< Traction Trauma < Without Walls  |  Dreadlocks > Alison >>


16m. Undeniably the classic of the crag and one of Clwyd's finest. Pull onto the wall passing a hidden peg and trend leftwards to a second peg. Move right to the bottom of a vague groove, bolt. Climb up the groove to reach a rounded break and bolt. The mother of all mantelshelves attains a standing position on the break, move right to a flake, which takes good small nuts. A final move through a slight bulge leads to the top. Superb. Lower-off staples in the back wall.
FA Stuart Cathcart, P.Waters, D.Barker 9.83

USER COMMENTS

Definitely the mid-grade route of the crag. Feels 7a in many ways though the fiddly little wires for the last section maybe make it E4. The mantleshelf comment might count as reverse-beta and make it harder to onsight!
Ian Patterson - 15/Mar/05

Quite good but not 3 star.Soft touch E4 as its just the one move really E3 6A/B old money
AndyM - 18/Mar/05

French 7a really,the bit after the mantel is easy. Awesome.
Chris Doyle - 20/Mar/05

3 stars in my book
harold walmsley - 24/Oct/05

Really enjoyed this route, did it just as the sun was dropping behind the hills. Crux involves some delicate balancey moves that need wiring and are very satisfying.
bucski - 05/Apr/06

Superb rock. A great E2 spoilt by a desperate move, felt impossible for me at 6'3", must be harder for the tall!
Mike Raine - 24/Aug/06

I climbed a new direct finish which adds a bit more spice and possibly tickles the grade up a notch. After the mantle continue directly up via a long reach and another precarious rock over move.
Lee Proctor - 24/Nov/07

Lee I have a sneaking supsicion that this has been done before. I assume you mean avoiding the Rock 1 on the right. I am sure John Moulding, John Codling or myself have done it before but can't exactly remember when exactly. It would be 1983 ish.
Themeninblack - 25/Nov/07

Thank's for the info Gary. I thought it must have been done before because its too obvious to have been missed. Lee
Lee Proctor - 26/Nov/07

New bolt added by the 2nd peg (Winter 07/08?). Seems likely to become a clip-up.
Simon Witcher - 17/Feb/08

Whats with all the bolts? Spoils it really as it has become pretty much a sport route. A good route though, which wouldve been better if the BR in the groove wasnt there and the one protecting the crux was slightly lower.
liam pos - 22/Aug/10

Also, the mantleshelf comment is a bit silly as i didnt do a ridiculos mantleshelf, and people should be able to work things out when they get to them rather than being 'told'...
liam pos - 22/Aug/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 49
    hard E5 0 of 16
    E5 0 of 16
    easy E5 0 of 16
    hard E4 0 of 16
    E4 12 of 16
    easy E4 3 of 16
    hard E3 1 of 16
    E3 0 of 16
    easy E3 0 of 16
    hard 6c 0 of 17
    6c 0 of 17
    easy 6c 0 of 17
    hard 6b 0 of 17
    6b 8 of 17
    easy 6b 8 of 17
    hard 6a 1 of 17
    6a 0 of 17
    easy 6a 0 of 17
    3 Stars 13 of 16
    2 Stars 3 of 16
    1 Star 0 of 16
    0 Stars 0 of 16
    Bag of ..... 0 of 16

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