Sentinel Crack

3 Stars
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Choked Chimney < Puppet Crack  |  Sentinel Buttress > Sentinel Groove >>

An awesome roof-crack; a desperate struggle for most. Climb an awkward groove to a poor rest and then undercut out left. The struggle to finger-jam past the lip is memorable and will leave its mark one way or another. Once past the lip easy jamming remains, if you have any steam left. E2? I don't think so.
FA. Don Whillans 1959. Runnerless, or so the stories go!


I've always said Whillans was a god and this proves it!I couldn't even climb VS for a week after my ascent.Short and 'ard.
ALAN - 17/Jan/02

You have to be STRONG. I wasn't! :( Hats off to all that are. Took a great fall coming off the crack to the LH face. My nut'll probably be there still in another 10 years.
vic - 12/May/03

Don Whillans told me he soloed the first ascent ie no gear !. Jim Campbell did the second ascent and had salt and vinegar put on his hands in the cafe afterwards. Geoff Birtles did an early ascent after dropping a big limestone chockstone in the crack.
John Kirk - 17/Mar/06

Re Sutty's comments on UKC; Whillans led (after prior top-roping) with a rope carrying a peg but ended up not placing any pro - so effectively a solo. I understood that JC removed the chockstone (on lead) that Birtle's placed.
Simon Lee - 22/Mar/06

Went to Chatsworth with the intention of doing this and puppet crack today. Both badly out of condition and would do with a good clean. The whole edge is looking a little bit neglected apart from mort wall, pearls, emerald crack and vibrio.
craig devonshire - 29/Aug/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 22
    hard E4 0 of 8
    E4 0 of 8
    easy E4 1 of 8
    hard E3 3 of 8
    E3 3 of 8
    easy E3 0 of 8
    hard E2 1 of 8
    E2 0 of 8
    easy E2 0 of 8
    hard 6a 0 of 7
    6a 0 of 7
    easy 6a 0 of 7
    hard 5c 0 of 7
    5c 7 of 7
    easy 5c 0 of 7
    hard 5b 0 of 7
    5b 0 of 7
    easy 5b 0 of 7
    3 Stars 5 of 7
    2 Stars 2 of 7
    1 Star 0 of 7
    0 Stars 0 of 7
    Bag of ..... 0 of 7

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