Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 22
16m. An awesome roof-crack is a desperate fight. Climb an awkward groove to a poor rest and then undercut wildly out left. The struggle to fist-jam past the lip is especially memorable and will doubtless leave its mark one way or another. Once past the lip easy jamming remains - if you have any steam left!
I've always said Whillans was a god and this proves it!I couldn't even climb VS for a week after my ascent.Short and 'ard.
You have to be STRONG. I wasn't! :( Hats off to all that are. Took a great fall coming off the crack to the LH face. My nut'll probably be there still in another 10 years.
Don Whillans told me he soloed the first ascent ie no gear !. Jim Campbell did the second ascent and had salt and vinegar put on his hands in the cafe afterwards. Geoff Birtles did an early ascent after dropping a big limestone chockstone in the crack.
Re Sutty's comments on UKC; Whillans led (after prior top-roping) with a rope carrying a peg but ended up not placing any pro - so effectively a solo. I understood that JC removed the chockstone (on lead) that Birtle's placed.
Went to Chatsworth with the intention of doing this and puppet crack today. Both badly out of condition and would do with a good clean. The whole edge is looking a little bit neglected apart from mort wall, pearls, emerald crack and vibrio.