Better Late than NeverRoute Grade Votings
Total votes cast 82
Adjacent Routes
14m. The slab direct; it is delicate and protection is limited. USER COMMENTS
Another one to test your faith in gritstones frictional properties!!! Essentially a solo.
My first E1 lead. The two breaks are protectable, just. Take 0.5, 1.0 & 1.5 friends.
Superb slab. Straightforward but unprotected. My first E1 too!
Bit of an eliminate but quite nice. One delicate move that is easier if you are taller. Has gear - got small cams in towards the left of the two breaks.
About HVS 4c if you're tall.
Soft E1. HVS 5a.
HVS 4c if youre short too, it wasn't reach dependent. Easy-angled smearing and no 5a in sight. Still, a nice route and worth a star or two I reckon.
It struck me that any worthwhile gear was off route (on the VS) typical issues with routes this close I guess.
Great fun, did it twice in a row! Really pleasant slab, I'd say a soft touch for the grade but I'm a slab climber!
I thought that it shared gear with the VS next door (which I thought had harder moves than this). Saying that it's off route makes everything a bit contrived. Put some pro in and don't hurt yourself on it.
If you can reach gear without climbing off the line, which you can, then its not off-route.
Quite pleasant but too squeezed in to be worth a star.
Just about E1 for the runout. The moves aren't to tricky for 5a, but it'd be a long slide down if you came off them. A worthwhile no star route.
Originally led this by accident thinking it was Left Edge, thanks to a missed line (printing error) in the 1983 guide. A small cam in the top break would stop you. I did think the top move was 5a & worth E1
My first E1 too and found the actual climbing really straightforward, difficult to protect the first break but good options for feet to enhance friction to step up to the second break...the whole thing was a bit of a headgame...I really loved it :-)
not easy, if you climb without sharing the holds on Left Edge. |