The Great Cleft

1 Stars
Fluttery
 E1 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Inner Space < Galaxy  |  Deep Space > Star Gate >>


There are a number of ways to climb the chimney none of which can be described as 'ordinary'. This variation starts in the through cave, below a crack in the back wall of Brazen Buttress (opposite 'Deep Space').
1) 5a, 15m. Climb a small groove to the crack and follow this leftwards to a stance on the arete.
2) 5a, 20m. Move uo then bridge across the cleft onto the lip of the overhang opposite. Chimney up the inside of the cleft above and move out to join 'Deep Space' to finish. Alternative finish: Brittle Nerve E2 5c (P.Littlejohn 26.9.77). Move left from the stance, past a hole. Trend left to the arete then move back right and climb the wobbly wall to the top. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Unknown

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