This magnificent route which gives entertaining climbing in a weird situation. Unfortunately the first pitch can be a bit slimy since it is buried in the through cave but the second pitch is superb. If there are birds nesting in the cave then consider doing it in one long pitch. Start beneath the left-hand of two grooves at the right-hand side of the back wall of the cave. Photo this page.
1) 5b, 20m. Climb to a ledge then move left onto the wall. Move up to gain a rightwards rising line which is followed to a good flake. Continue up and right (thread runner) until level with a hole on the right. Step down and gain the hole from below.
2) 5a, 20m. Pull out left then swing around the roof to gain a chimneying position above. Bridge up the outside edge above (or climb the right wall) and continue up the corner to the top.
The Fresh Air Finish, E2 5b. Climb straight over the roof above the cave and move right to the hanging arete. Pull onto this on its left and continue up the wall above in an amazing position.
FA. Pat Littlejohn, Dave Garner 5.75. FA. (FAF) Pat Littlejohn 1.12.77
Brilliant - just do it!
Paul Evans - 11/Mar/05
Stunning! Sustained, pumpy and fab climbing with good pro from start to finish.
The start is best experienced after a dry period, it felt like a barrel of motor oil had been spilled down it (but it had been raining beforehand).
SteveM - 04/May/05
Seems better to do in one long pitch, as there are birds nesting in the hole and horrible hanging belay. Very atmospheric route, top pitch is fantastic, out there climbing but is only 5a!
Chad - 25/Jul/05
Brillyunt. So so good. I've never seen the first 40ft properly dry, but fear not, its still positive enough to climb through the wetness if you're solid at 5b - I promise - and its very safe with the gear easy to place unlike other MCK routes.
The hanging belay adds to the atmosphere of the route and provides an excellent photo opportunity and a rest if required. Do it, do it now.
Jon Leighton - 06/Aug/07
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