<< The Great Cleft < Deep Space | Warp Factor > Hyperspace >>
No climbing 1 March to 1 August because of nesting birds.
40m. A seminal route in many climber's careers; as your arms become tired, the holds just get bigger and bigger! Start below the groove as for Deep Space. Climb the groove, which is surprisingly technical and slabby, until a line of jugs leads out right to another groove. Follow this, with most of the Atlantic Ocean beneath you, then move right into an easier finishing crack.
Warp Gate, E5 6b - The version described in Extreme Rock is actually the best line on the crag but is seldom climbed. It starts up Warp Factor and continues up Star Gate. Solid E5!
FA. Pat Littlejohn, Nipper Harrison 3.77. FA. (WG) Kim Carrigan
Easy for E3 if you like steep routes, but not a good one to fall off (either leading or seconding). 3 stars for the line & position, which are awesome - just a shame there's sooooo much chalk residue on all the holds.
Chris Parson - 31/Aug/10
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