| E4 6a|
<< Star Gate < Warp Factor | Fireball XL5 > Just Klingon >>
No climbing 1 March to 1 August because of nesting birds.
This route makes the most of the Space Face by taking an intricate diagonal line across it. Start on a block.
1) 6a, 15m. Move diagonally right to a bulge. Pull through this then swing left (direct to here is much harder) then press on up the jugs above to a short groove leading to a small ledge.
2) 5c, 10m. Move up to some juggy pockets which lead rightwards, past some threads, to the stance of Mother Night.
3) 5c, 20m. Pull out right from the stance to below an open groove. Traverse right across the blank wall to a good pocket. Follow the crackline above, moving right around the bulge at the top.
FA. Pat Littlejohn 6.5.79
wow! What a position! Fanatastic climbing with good gear
dave - 09/May/05
The first pitch (and whole route) is E4 5c if you take the most logical line: Start 20 feet right of the Warp Factor groove. From a hanging belay, follow a rightwards trending wide crack/fault for 15 feet, then back left on monster buckets to an in situ (blue) thread. Straight up from this to a hole, then right for 5 feet to another hole. Pull round into the groove above (belay of Warp Factor).
Tom B - 24/May/05
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