Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 12
30m. Classic steep climbing past loads of threads - about 7a+ but check the threads first! Start 10m left of the Mother Night ledge. Climb up then move right around the first bulge to a thread in a diagonal slab. Climb up the overlaps leftwards to the traverse line of Hyper Space. Pull up above and follow the line of threads, keeping left of the short groove, to the upper break. Either finish straight up the wall, or as for Mother Night.
Fantastic space trip up the main part of this cliff at such an amenable grade, ie virtually "sported up" with all the threads.
I agree, a superb route never that hard but very pumpy, there is a reasonable knee bar before the three close together threads in a hole. I might be wrong but I think the rockfax guide shows the wrong way at the top. I tried to go up a smooth groove right of the last big thread and found it nails, broke a foothold off and fell off, going left is much easier and in keeping with the route. Anybody else found this?
The line on the phototopo in the old guide is in the wrong place, not that it really matters as you just follow the threads. The hardest move is at the top if finished direct but there is a no hands rest beneath this and easier alternative finishes to the left (a corner) or right (finish of mother night).
Finished up the right hand groove (to the right of the last big thread), and probably felt more like 6b, brilliant moves though, with a no hands rest before and after this section. Be careful at the top as its fairly loose.